I just took a Ruger 10/22 Takedown .22 caliber rifle out to the range for the first time. If you have been thinking about buying one of these semi-auto .22 caliber rifles, this is what I found, for what it's worth. First and foremost, Read The Instructions. Since this is a take down (take apart) model, there are a couple things to be aware of before firing it.

The Setup

1) It needs to be adjusted. Since the barrel and the stock separate, some inventive engineering had to take place, designing it. There is a thumb wheel you need to turn to make sure there is no play between the two parts (stock and barrel).
2) Don't use Locktite on the supplied mounting bracket, if you are mounting a scope. The receiver metal is not thick, so the threaded holes may lead directly into the receiver. Adding a drop of Locktite into each hole might find itself dripping onto the firing pin carrier assembly.
3) Decide if you are going to use a scope or keep it stock with open sights. The rear sight, flips up for shooting, folds down for storage, however, it is partially obstructed by the mounting plate for the scope.
4) Check the barrel for foreign objects, from shipping and storage. (this is a must for every firearm).

I did need to make a slight adjustment to the tension to ensure there was no play between the stock and barrel. I used a drop of orange nail polish (not mine) to mark the top dead center of the adjustment wheel. (I want to see if there is any movement in it, as it is being used over time). So far, NONE.

The Range Time

OK, I was a bit ambitious when I took it to the range. I placed the target stand at 50yards, since that is where all my other .22 rifles are set to. Normally, I would set up the target at about 25 yards and set up the scope, then make fine adjustments at 50 yards. I fired 3 rounds using the iron sites to see if they were close. I only hit the target 2 twice. Since I didn't bring any tools to fully adjust the sights, and I found the rear sight was blocked by the mounting plate for the scope, I moved on to the scope ( I will adjust the iron sights on my next visit to the range).

I chose Weaver Grand Slam Solid Steel Lever Lok Quick Release 1" High Scope rings (pant pant) for the scope mounting. I chose the Lever Lok, so I could take the scope off the rifle while it is stored in the Ruger supplied carrying case (NICE). NOTE: if you are going to do this, make sure you mount the scope with pressure on the rings toward the front of the rifle. Even though there is little recoil from a .22, if you just slap the scope on the rail, it may not locate the same every time, forcing you to adjust the sights every time you put the scope on. By pushing it forward, it seats against the notches in the mounting bracket. I was using a Tasco 3 x 9 power scope with mil-dot reticle.

Using a bench rest, I fired 3 Winchester Dynapoint GT Copperplated 40gr bullets and watched as my target stand was shot to pieces. Too High, and to the left, which shot the nylon tie wrap holding the target back plate. I continued to shoot even though the target was now at 45 degrees. It only took about 5 more rounds to start hitting the targets (for the record they are 1 inch targets.) I fired a few more rounds and then took the scope off to see if there would be any consistency when reattaching it. I ended up with the same results. I used some lead bullets (Blazer 38gr, and American Eagle 38gr.) and found less accuracy. If you are hunting rabbits, squirrels and small birds, you will be OK. Groupings are about 1 - 1.5 inches, at 50 yards. For target shooting? Probably not. For those not used to .22 rifles, they tend to like one bullet over another. The differences between the three types I was using, were slight. It did favour the Dynapoints which are a target round.

The rifle, out of the box, comes with one 10 round rotary magazine. I bought a few Butler Creek aftermarket 25 round 'banana magazines' with the steel lips. They worked flawlessly. NOTE: MAKE SURE YOU GET THE STEEL LIP VERSION, NOT THE HOT LIPS VERSION. I have yet to see a review of the hot lip version, that was not problematic.

At first, firing the rifle felt 'mechanical.' It seemed clunky when ejecting the spent casing, and feeding the next bullet into the chamber. After about 20 - 30 rounds, all was forgiven. It became smoother mechanically as parts were broken in. I had read reviews of this rifle jamming, and was concerned. I didn't have any, even with bulk ammo, both lead and copper plated.

The Cleanup

I found the 10/22 to be a breeze to clean. Afterall, you already have it apart and for the most part, everything is easily accessed.

Would I recommend this rifle for backwoods / survival? Yes.
Would I recommend it for Zombies? Sure, but they have to put it together, themselves. 😀

Preppersaurus