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How to "prep" your house.

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(@thecrownsown)
Prominent Member
Joined: 14 years ago
Posts: 858
Topic starter  

So I've read some good thoughts here on protecting your home. Things like window films from damage of flying debris, etc. Food stores, essentials, water storage, etc. Keep loose items inside so they don't become projectiles, etc.

But what I would like some more info. on is how would I better protect my home in the case of a chemical spill or release into the air or ground locally? We do have a Chemical plant locally and there have been a few occurances over the years. Thankfully no fatalities, but still the thoughts linger....The local township has an air raid siren (havn't had one of those since living in the Sault! 🙂 ) and an emergency auto caller system which calls everyone in the town advising them of the emergency...used for everything from tornado warnings, to chemical spills....but....if we are advised to stay indoors....or even to evacuate because of a chemical released into the air or on the surface....how can I better secure my home? Dryer vents, doors can allow air to leak into the house. Are there filters or systems out there to lock or seal vents? Would I just duct tape shut doors and cracks?

And if we have to evacuate....where would I get personal protective gear? Gas masks? protective suits against chemical irritants or poisons?

This weighs heavily on my mind because aside from weather it's the most likely scenario. We have a map with evacuation routes, plans where to meet if we are at work, where to pick up our son, etc....but....the actual front line defense seems a bit lacking....it's nice to have the plan, but if we don't actually have the "hardware" to protect ourselves, is it all for not?

Any thoughts on proofing the home for "stay inside" emergencies? Thoughts on gear and where to get it. And what should we do to bug out?

I'm all ears, and appreciate anything from more experienced people here!
Thanks,


https://www.internationalpreppersnetwork.net/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=7738


   
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oldschool
(@oldschool)
Noble Member
Joined: 14 years ago
Posts: 1962
 

Great questions.

Too bad I have no answers. 🙁



   
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(@denob)
Member Admin
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 2754
 

First off, make sure you keep up on regular home maintenance...recaulk window & door frames regularly and keep weather stripping replaced when worn. Since you are not looking at nuclear or biological weapons here, duct tape will go a long way to seal up vents, etc. You can also tape up window & door frames from the inside. As for gas masks, look to your local surplus store, they will likely have the usual Israeli, Canadian, US issue masks and if you're lucky, replacement filters. As for protective suits...well not sure. Maybe someone else here has some advice on that.



   
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(@thecrownsown)
Prominent Member
Joined: 14 years ago
Posts: 858
Topic starter  

Thanks for that info. Unfortunately the local KW Surplus store sells gas masks, but the filters i think are just activated charcoal...virtually useless in this application. And no suits....anything in souther ontario would be appreciated.

what about a furnace? Attic space? it could be maddening trying to block off all places of air penetrations.....and take hours....lol.....believe it or not, this keeps me up thinking sometimes as to what to do in this situation...


https://www.internationalpreppersnetwork.net/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=7738


   
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oldschool
(@oldschool)
Noble Member
Joined: 14 years ago
Posts: 1962
 

believe it or not, this keeps me up thinking sometimes as to what to do in this situation...

You are not the only one. I lived near the Plastimet fire when it happened. People had to test the land for years after the fire due to health risks eating veggies out of your own garden.



   
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 Duer
(@duer)
Eminent Member
Joined: 14 years ago
Posts: 39
 

As far as air infiltration. All newer homes are equpited with vapour barriors. If installed correctly will prevent air leakage. If you have an older home you may qualify for a government grant for making your home more energy efficient. This works best with smaller homes as it is based on quantitive practices and not the size of the home. At this point use a polyurathane closed cell exspantion foam. Usually rated for 2lb. This acts as a great thermal barrior and vapour barrior. You will need to spray directly to the attic portion of the cieling. One inch will suffice. You may then continue with blown in or bat insulation overtop. All doors will need to be taped from the inside and of course a wet cloth at the base of all entrances will help. The latter is short term emergency only. As far as dryer vents etc. You can install electric mechanical closures that close when the electricity is not on. These are typically used on high efficiancy boilers and furnaces. Place at the closest point to the exterior wall to prevent condensation within the ducting. You will also need an access panel because it does have a electrical conection. The attic is a great location if possible. Hopefully the vent is vented through the roof. This also works for range hoods.

Hope this helps.



   
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(@greenguy)
Estimable Member
Joined: 14 years ago
Posts: 190
 

I guess I would look at trying to manage air movement rather than eliminate it. I'd basically look at creating a higher pressure in my house than was outside, then I'd know that air was leaking out, not in. OK, so how would I develop a higher pressure zone in my house? I'd look at the products used to bring filtered air into bomb shelters. I would pump filtered air in, thus controlling inbound air, and this would pressurize the interior. There are even gauges you can buy to show inside air pressure versus outside. What do you think?



   
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(@anonymous)
Illustrious Member
Joined: 15 years ago
Posts: 11254
 

thecrownsown,

Not an expert, but I will provide an opinion on your situation. Shelter-in-place during a chemical release.

You will want to have access to vapor barrier or similar poly sheeting. At least one 10' wide roll. You will want at least 3 - 6 rolls of duct tape. Get the good stuff so you know it will stick. Lee Valley carries some good duct tape or look for 3M duct tape. At least 2 cans of expanding foam insulation. A ladder. A sharp knife. and personal protective equipment (I will describe that in moment.)

Once you have received warning to shelter-in-place due to a chemical release:
1) Shut all downs and windows to your home, turnoff all devices that drawing air from the outside - furnace, a/c unit, hot water heater, clothes dryer, exhaust fans.
2) Keep all family members and pets inside, unless needed to seal the home.
3) Using the poly vapour barrier and duct tape seal all opening from your home to the outside. If you have time. We will work on the assumption that you have time. If you have a covered entrance way into your home put your first layer of plastic out there and work back towards the home. Barriers in layers may help. Once all items on the outside have been sealed, make you way into your home. Hang a piece of poly over the outside of your door. Use the expanding foam or the duct tape the seal the door from the inside. Then 4 or 6 feet inside your door make another poly barrier, seal this layer to the ceiling, walls and floor. This will keep the chemicals out if someone opens the door(from the outside) before the all clear.
4) While someone is outside sealing, have other family members seal with vapour barrier and duct tape all the windows on the inside of your home.
5) Rooms that have the furnace, water heater, etc, seal the door to that room with vapour barrier and duct tape. If you have a chimney seal the clean-out with vapour barrier and duct tape, expanding foam if necessary.
6) Find an interior room with no exterior window, put up vapour barrier to all doors that lead into this room. Two over lapping sheets that are duct taped on the edges should do. Try not to leave and re-enter to often, but you can move about if needed. Inside this place set up a floor or desk fan aim it at the entrance into the room. This will build a positive pressure in that room and keep the other air from entering.
7) Keep a portable radio & or laptop with you so you know when the all clear has been given.

PPE: Gas mask, spare filters, NBC suit complete. Or improvise. Full face respirator (1st choice) or half face respirator and goggles that seal, Tyvek one piece suit with hood, for insulating or painting, rubber or nitrile gloves (the tough ones), rubber booties to go over your shoes. Pull the legs and arms of the one piece suit over your gloves and booties - seal with duct tape. Ensure the hood is drawn as tight to your face as possible. If you have a gas mask, duct tape the hood around the mask, do not cover the eye pieces.

Unless you know you were exposed while suited up outside, we will leave decontamination alone. If you were. Do not enter your house. Call 9-1-1 on your cell and have the HazMat Team from your local fire department come to your house.

There is probably more, maybe a hazmat person will sound in on this one.

Mountainman.

Almost forgot checkout http://www.sportsmansguide.com in their surplus area they sometimes have NBC suits from Eastern Bloc countries.



   
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(@thecrownsown)
Prominent Member
Joined: 14 years ago
Posts: 858
Topic starter  

this is invaluable information. Thanks mountain man.

Multiple layers of protection, building inwards to the interior of the house. I like it.

Is there a fast and easy way to cover a furnace? Our basement is partially finished, and there is no separate room to the furnace. It's in the open...

Also, I"ve heard (but never had it confirmed) that it's better to be upstairs for chemicals? Not in a basement? Is there any credence to this or is it just an old wives tail?


https://www.internationalpreppersnetwork.net/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=7738


   
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(@anonymous)
Illustrious Member
Joined: 15 years ago
Posts: 11254
 

thecrownsown,

Quick, you mean cheap/affordable way to cover the furnace?? My best answer. Ensure you cold air intake to the furnace is not blocked. Frame in, from ceiling to floor with 1"x2" a space at least 3 feet around your furnace. Use the vapour barrier and seal it to the 1"x2" 's on three sides. Leave the forth side open so you can change filters or do maintenance. Pre-cut the forth piece of vapour barrier, roll it up and keep it nearby, as well as duct tape or the black acoustical seal goop to seal the vapour barrier. IF, have to shelter in place your furnace can be sealed in two minutes or less. The 1x2's will cost you about $10 to $15. The vapour barrier, not sure of $$.

Lower areas and gas/chemicals. Yes, many gases are heavier than air and sink to the lowest points - mustard gas, propane for sure sink. Natural gas rises - lighter than air. Nerve gas, can't remember, I think most nerve agents sink. Toxic chemical from a fire - most will rise with the smoke. Ammonia???? I think it sinks. Sour gas - is heavier than natural gas, I think it sinks, because you are trained to run up hill and cross wind from sour gas leaks.

You have to know what the toxic substance is. But as a general rule in a chemical leak, I would suggest avoid sheltering in the basement, UNLESS you have an air filtration system like the ones used in fallout shelters.

So, no it is not a wife's tale. Many chemicals are heavier than air and thus sink to low points and collect and concentrate there.

Did this help at all??

Mountainman.



   
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(@tazweiss)
Honorable Member
Joined: 14 years ago
Posts: 616
 

In military NBCW training we're taught that chemical warfare agents are all heavier than air. Chemical agents will always sink to the lowest level and eventually settle to the ground. Having said that, until the chemical settles it is still able to be moved about by the wind. Lighter than air chemicals won't form as much of a danger as they will tend to keep rising until they have reached their level of balance, much like a helium balloon continues to rise until it reaches neutral boyancy.
As for the furnace, you might think about framing in a separate enclosure for it. Maybe go to the chemical plant and talk to the emergency response team there about filters and gear for the home. Using positive pressure in your home sounds like a good idea. You would still have to bring air in from outside though. This could be done with your furnace, providing you have a good filtration system on it.


Those who are unwilling to defend freedom, will become unfree.


   
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(@runswithscissors)
Estimable Member
Joined: 14 years ago
Posts: 218
 

By gas masks, are you guys talking about the military style ones? Would it be better to have respirators - like from the hardware store - or are they just the same thing by a different name?
I also seem to recall reading or being told (can't remember) that if you have a good quality heavy rubber type rainsuit and boots/gloves and you tape yourself at the seams and around where the respirator and hood meet - despite it being hotter then hell and you'd sweat like a running hippo - you could then move around outside (to leave or check things I would imagine) without it being overwhelmingly dangerous. As long as you got hosed or showered down before removing the clothing (to decontaminate or remove residuals from the rainsuit). Or is that really just crap?

Runs With Scissors


Runs With Scissors


   
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