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peppercorn
(@peppercorn)
Noble Member
Joined: 10 years ago
Posts: 2117
 

For solar stuff, there is a few things needing to be checked. Your battery manufacturer will have float, bulk and equalize voltages for the type of batteries you have bought along with hydrometer readings to check the battery chemistry with. With lead acid you better confirm that you are set up right for hitting the voltages recommended by the manufacturer (I like running a little higher myself).
You absolutely can not trust the meters on any charge controller, even top of the line ones. You absolutely need your own quality meter (not from CT). You will have to drop a couple hundred and get a Fluke brand (my personal choice). I have never seen charge controller meters agree with each other. I can see the displays on 4 of them from where I sit and they are all out by 10ths of volts from each other.
When you need to find a problem, starting with a known good meter will save you lots of grief.

Very little goes wrong with a solar system, panels just work, charge controllers just work, the number one problem that I have seen is connections that go bad over time. Connections are everywhere through the system. Multiple connections through a battery bank and high current ones at that and often near corrosive gases. Every month when checking the specific gravity of the acid grab on to each connection and give it a tug to ensure its tight, I also like to use the IR gun to shoot the connections when the batteries are charging.

The wires going to and from your charge controller likely cant be seen and are under a cover, often going to a terminal strip or block, these connections absolutely need to be checked every now and again. Remove the cover and pull on the wires, look for heat discoloration on the wiring or around the terminal block. Even if everything looks good tighten up the terminal screws anyway( if you can).
The higher voltage 48 volt systems seem to have fewer connection problems as less amperage runs though the connections.

Much appreciated. Any words on cold or heat issues effecting performance and anything that can be done while away from a remote setup.. thx

Regarding a remote setup, shut everything down but the charge controllers, they will keep your batteries charged up and ready for you to use when you return. By shut everything down I mean the inverter, with it off all loads are removed. Cold doesnt harm your batteries as such just lowers their performance (amp capacity).
The above was for lead acid, but now that LiFEP04 is taking over, you cant be charging these at below 0C, Permanent damage will occur if you try. Fortunately many, maybe most now have temp sensors that will automatically shut down the batteries if you try.I suspect all will soon come with this.

Give a man a gun, and he can rob a bank. Give a man a bank, and he can rob the world.


   
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