If I can get my new (old 74 GMC 4x4) bug out truck running... I will be there. On that note... any of you folks pro's with the old carbs? It runs great at idle, turns to crap when I put it in gear to drive it. Help me make it to the meeting?
Cheers
Scotty
Scotty,
I moved your question here to answer it and I bet a few more will show up in time.
First question, automatic choke or manual choke on that GMC?? What engine do you have? 350 cu in, V-8?? Do you know what type of carbuerator you have?? Q-Jet 4 barrel??
Now that I have asked you a bunch of questions that you may or may not know the answer to....let's me start by saying I am not a mechanic. I have had a bunch of old beater type vehicles in my day. Including a 1974 Chev Blazer 4x4. It was the worse vehicle I ever owned when it came to consuming fuel. 10 mpg was a good day. Full-time 4x4 gobbled the fuel.
I like carbs, because unlike electronic fuel injection, a backyard fix-it guy and work on a carb. In the bush, you can make a carb engine work, even if that means using a jerry can of fuel on the roof of the cab and running a micket mouse fuel line made out of salvaged window washer tubes. You don't go fast, but eventually you get home without walking all night, lol.
If you have vaccuum lines on the carbs ensure they are tight and do not leak. A vaccuum leak will keep your carb from developing power. Check both ends of the vaccuum lines. If you have any extra vaccuum posts, cover them with rubber plugs. Ask the guys at the parts store, they should know what you are talking about.
Change the fuel filter. It is a silver tube with black fuel lines on both sides, located between the carb and the mechanical fuel pump. Should still be a cheap part to replace about $5.
Check the throttle cable and linkage. It should work everytime you step on the gas pedal.
Change your air filter, oil & oil filter change, spark plugs if the 4x4 has been sitting for a time. Basic tune-up. Then clean the carb.
How clean is the outside of your carb?? If it is dirty on the outside it may be dirty and gummed up on the inside. Get a big can of carb cleaner and hose the inside and the outside. When cleaning the outside stuff a rag inside the opening at the top of the carb. Hose the outside with carb cleaner, use a course brush and clean off the gum and varnish and grime. hose down again, wipe clean with a rag. Now that the outside is clean......fire up your engine. Let it warm up to normal operating temp. Spray a generous amount of carb cleaner down each of the carb openings. The engine will want to stall, be ready to pump the gas pedal. Once you have sprayed the inside a time or two (or three or four) and the engine is sounding smoother, take the 4x4 out for a quick drive on a road that allows you to get to highway speeds. You may also want to pour a can of gas treatment/carb cleaner/fuel injector cleaner in the fuel tank.
If the 4x4 is still laggy, check the timing. The distributor may need to be advanced or retarded to put you in the best operating power curve.
Maybe if you check back others will post some of their trouble shooting tips.
Best of luck,
Mountainman.
Thanks Mtn Man. Great reply. I posted same question on a GMC forum and getting great feedback. Check it out here.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?p=5960400#post5960400
Thanks so much for your time.
Scott
No matter how good or bad your life is, wake up each day thankful because someone somewhere else right now is fighting for theirs
I am thinking the carb is fouled and the old gas turned into varnish.
take apart and clean it out
check the float to see if it floats, if it does not then it will not accelerate but just do idle.
Mountanman, had great info to boot
I'm looking at getting an old Dodge Ramcharger. They actually a lot harder to track down than I thought. I checked out autotrader and there are only 3 across Canada on autotrader.
I'm looking at getting an old Dodge Ramcharger. They actually a lot harder to track down than I thought. I checked out autotrader and there are only 3 across Canada on autotrader.
If you get one replace the ThermoBog carburetor with an Edlebrock. It's the smartest thing I ever did with my old Ramcharger.
Than= I’d rather be rich than poor.
Then= I first became hungry then I ate.
There = She is there now.
Their = They have their things.
They're = They're going to the mall.
To = They came to the house.
Too = That's too bad.
I'm looking at getting an old Dodge Ramcharger. They actually a lot harder to track down than I thought. I checked out autotrader and there are only 3 across Canada on autotrader.
So if you by an old Ramcharger and you have to bug out, then As has been discussed around here to various lengths...Things have gotten really really bad and it is a full on S.H.T.F..So my point is this, if it is a bugout S.H.T.F. situation and you need to scrounge for parts wouldn't it make more sense to have something with a 350 Chev engine which is as common in every other farm yard and junk yard rather then having something that there is only 3 across Canada...Just my thoughts....
Better to have it and not need it; then to need it and not have it...
There are lots of Dodge parts around as well. The Ramcharger came with a 318 or 360 engine and either standard or auto transmission. These were very common in other Dodge and Chrysler vehicles so parts shoun't be much of a problem in any area.
JAB
If you take a drive through a farming area you will see loads of old domestic vehicles parked in farmers yards. In a full out SHTF scenario I'm sure that used parts would be at a premium but available for most domestics. I would agree that GMC/chev parts would be the most commonly available for older trucks followed by Ford and then Dodge.
As for bug out beaters, the best bet (easiest to work on) would be 1985 or older unless you have an engine analyzer to check out the computer. The older vehicles would also be the easiest to repair after a huge CME or EMP due to less, and less sensitive electronic components.
My personal choice for a dedicated bug out vehicle would be an 80's GM product with a 6.2 L Diesel engine. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Detroit_Diesel_V8_engine
Easy on fuel compared to a gasoline V8, adequate power (but no hot rod) and minimal electronics to get fried. Basically if you can turn it over and have a can of either you can get it to start in all but the coldest days. Either isn't my favorite but when push comes to shove...
Than= I’d rather be rich than poor.
Then= I first became hungry then I ate.
There = She is there now.
Their = They have their things.
They're = They're going to the mall.
To = They came to the house.
Too = That's too bad.
Thanks for the info so far guys. I'm am definitely not a mechanic. I was a soldier and a firefighter when I was in the CF. I don't know shit when it comes vehicles.
Anybody know if alternators and generators would be affected by cme or emt waves?
Anybody know if alternators and generators would be affected by cme or emt waves?
Some alternators without an electronic module (pre 85?) would probably survive a substantial CME. An EMT is a whole different (much bigger!) cat. I wish I could be more definitive but the question is almost like 'how fast does a blue car go?'
Not trying to be ignorant but narrowing down the question would really help. The best answer I can give is 'as a rule of thumb the simpler the electrical system is the better your chances of getting it started again.'
Than= I’d rather be rich than poor.
Then= I first became hungry then I ate.
There = She is there now.
Their = They have their things.
They're = They're going to the mall.
To = They came to the house.
Too = That's too bad.
Anybody know if alternators and generators would be affected by cme or emt waves?
Generally an EMP will take out electronic devices, that is devices with a silicon processor base. An alternator is electrical, that is it creates energy by moving a magnet and inducing current into a wire. The alternator itself would probably not be damaged but the electronic devices in modern vehicles, that is your ECM (the computer in your car) would be affected. Since cars are predominantly controlled by this computer to inject fuel and so on the car would be useless. There are generally rectifier diodes in the alternator that convert the alternating current to DC current the car can use. They could be affected as they are generally made of silicone, but could be replaced fairly easy. Generators could also be affected because they often contain a circuit board that controls the phase and voltage put out by the generator. Generally the more "electric" than "electronic" devices are then the less prone they are to the effects of EMP's, etc.
Short answer, yes. It is thought that some systems like generators might still work if they re not running at the time of the CME/EMP. Not sure about alternators, but assuming yes might be the best plan.
Rob