my answers are not gospel and need to be reinforced by your own research, and a local expert. See Legal Disclaimer at bottom of message, message need to be read and printed out in its Entirety, no warranty is issued in regards to this message or implied

Hi there,
sorry you had problems with the mold issues on your wood floors. Yes the bed directly on the floor was the issue and had nothing to do with issues of non-cleaning!

Now I do like your instructable, and am only adding some info to it here. Also the Bleach as a Mold Killer is what people generally think works but it does not, just google the words and see the results.

First off, I own and operate an ECO friendly cleaning company, we
Clean and Restore Windows and Floors.

I will follow this with some recommendations from my research and what we recommend to customers as well. (always use a two or three stage respirator and goggles along with rubber gloves when dealing with Mold and Mildew) or call in a specialist (bla bla other lawyer speak here, this our opinion only etc. )

1st, Bleach is non effective against Mold, that is a proven fact look it up the American Mold Institute and the EPA have done extensive testing and found this to be true. Look up results from the CMHC Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation. A. Bleach just kills most of the surface Mold leaving the roots to grown into the places that the Mold and Bleach which has just created more tiny holes for the roots to grow in.
B. There are very effective Mold killers that are Chemical Based and Some that are Bio Based. I will deal with the Bio Based ones.
LifeTime Solutions in the USA has a very good Bio Based Mold Blaster, and I have used it with excellent results as well!

2nd the Australians have been experimenting with Tee Tree Oil now for over 40 yrs to kill off Mold and other nasties. I suggest using GSE (Grape Seed Extract) and Tee Tree oil mixed in Distilled Water. 1ltr (pint) add in 40 drops of Tee Tree and from 35-45 of GSE.
Spray the area, wipe off in about 4 min, repeat and this time let the solution sit for about 15 min or so. Repeat let it sit for about 45-55 min or so.

3rd. Sprinkle Borax and Baking soda mix (60% Borax-40% Baking Soda) and spritze with the Tee Tree GSE mix until it looks like icing sugar, cover with plastic so it does not dry out fast and remove it in about 4 hrs. or so, wipe clean. Then Extract, Rince and Extract
- This is good for ANY surfaces, I did a wall in a basement that had mold and mildew growing on it 4yrs ago, it has not grown back since.

Dry with fans on the Wood floor for about 6-8 hrs, use moisture meter to test.

Get a clear polyurethane, mix in some Ageing or Amberizing Solution,
use up to 4oz per 1/2 Gallon to make a wash to add some colour back into your sanded areas, or worn in areas. Lightly apply using a brush or my fav a Foam brush.
Note - you will need to do this twice, 2 layers is much better than 1 heavy layer.
use some cloth to or no lint paper towel to rub the edges so it is blended in. (No hard lines ! )
Now, lastly lightly apply a thin coat of clear polyurethane over the spots, or re-coat the entire floor area.
We have done this and you can not find the original bare spots at all when we are done, and to re-coat the entire floor just makes good sense and will last for years to come.

Note - this is tricky and you might want to get someone else, a Professional to do this. We can help you on that one as well.
Basic Coatings, Bona and Schwartz Chemicals all have a no sand/sandfree process and coverings to enable you to do this.

Varathane and Minwax offer this as well, but it is not as good a product, look at the Taber Tests results to see as well. There is another Canadian based company out of Quebec that is awesome but I can not remember the name right now, sorry.

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Hi there Xxxxxx,
my answers are not gospel and need to be reinforced by your own research, and a local expert. See Legal Disclaimer at bottom of message, message need to be read and printed out in its Entirety, no warranty is issued in regards to this message or implied

Answers;
Maybe?
I do not know what your sub-floor is, is the sub-floor porous or is it smooth and shiny concrete? Yes concrete can be and is considered porous as well, it is the surface prep that makes the difference.
Always wear protective gear including a good 2 stage mask, the simple paper ones are NOT good enough, the size of Micron porosity is too large in them, for dealing with Mold and Mildew spores.

If concrete, you need to clean the concrete with the methods given, then you need, NEED to seal the concrete using some type of concrete sealer that you can paint over. The reason you need to get that type is glue is similar to paint, it needs the ability to bind itself to the surface.

If the floor is porous, why did it become moldy? and !!!! you need to check out why it became moldy? Florida is very Humid, so there could be lots of reasons. Then clean the floor as well, using the methods given. Does your house/dwelling have a Dehumidifier? Does the Furnace have one, is it cleaned out and working properly? In Ontario, where I live it is Humid, this is due to the Lake Effects from Lake Ontario. Everyone here is told to use a Dehumidifier in their house, especially if they have hardwood flooring of any type.

To Clean Mold, when Mold is Dry it is Dangerous, when wet it is inert. Make a mixture of Tea Tree Oil and Grape Seed Oil (not grapefruit! oil or juice)
Put about 25-35 drops each per a Litre/Pint of water in a sprayer, spray heavily onto Mold, make it wet, then you can now work with it and remove it, must be very wet. Remove then follow the other procedure. Remember to use a shop vac or extractor to pull all the material and wetness out of the concrete, as in the spray contents and mold spores and stems. Re-treat at least once more, shop vac out, then use a large air mover to blow air across the surface for at the very least 24hrs, 48hrs best.

The Hardwood is probably engineered hardwood right? They are not all created equal and there are some designed to be used in Basements and moister areas. Those boards that have mold in them need to be removed and destroyed, there is no saving them. Please do not even try, the mold will be impossible to remove from the material.

Before you re-install the flooring, you should consider getting an expert in Basement installs to do the job for you. That person will have the following info for you;
Concrete Sealer
Concrete prep for Hardwood - either a vapour barrier designed for concrete and wood flooring and or the new concrete floor base materials. This sounds confusing until you see it, the base looks like plywood on one side, the bottom that goes against the concrete has sort of X looking material. This allows the air to flow around and so not create vapour lock resulting in wet conditions and areas, wich resulting areas leading to Mold and Mildew Growth.

There are a few other products on the market for the concrete base material. One looks like the stuff that veggies come shipped with, sort of weird gate like stuff that is made from pliable poly. (sorry best visual description I can think of)
Get a few quotes from real experts in your area, and Wood or Concrete should never, ever be laid directly onto Concrete that is a big NO NO! In Canada and I am sure in the US as well.

Any words and methods given is not considered advice given, it is merely how I would do things, please look into local experts, and all work is done so at your risk, message need to be read and printed out in its Entirety, no warranty is issued in regards to this message or implied, Legal Disclaimer