A little thing my dad taught me years ago(not saying how many...) was how to draw water from our well when there was a power outage or the damn pump was on the fritz. First thing if you are trying to do this at depths greater than 200' you will need 3 or more people as it can become exhausting and at those depths maybe only with limited success.1. remove intake line from old pump
2. place hand over end of pipe and pull up release hand and quickly push back down on pipe
3. keep repeating this motion rapidly and without stopping until water starts coming out. you will have to continue this to keep the water flowing hence more than one person is handy ( pardon the pun) Note a small mod to this is to use a soft rubber ball at the end of the pipe to keep from wearing the skin off of your hand. Always replace the pipe to its former position to avoid contamination and of course for the next guy, don't screw other people over( remember we reap what we sow) any other tricks out there? low tech or otherwise?
When in doubt think it out...(you thought I was gonna say something else?)
Hey,Nobshere,.....Thanks for covering this. It's smart if that's what you have to work with.
Though , it might help to state which type of existing well you are describing. It may sound obvious to some but won't be for others.
Is it a jet pump or submersible? I think a jet does not go down to 200' range?
Like , what's the intake line? polyethylene?
What is the "pipe" ?
I might be describing the same principle in this scenario, and maybe someone else won't get it. :
If you have a bored, dug well ,or drilled well,.....and room (2")to insert the appropriate length of flex or rigid poly-pipe to reach 4' or more below well-water level, with a lightweight 1-1/4"poly foot valve attached to the bottom end, you can simply pull up easy and push down fast to get water up to surface. If your pipe is rigid, it helps to add an 90-degree elbow, a 3' extension pipe, and another 90.degree elbow, and another pipe length aimed at your receptacle on the ground, as you are making your vertical movements. These may be any distance you can stretch to with your whole body...squat/bend up to extended arms or active standing for moderate output with just armpower.
If you are using a single length of flexible poly and a footvalve, the right length can be determined and the upper arc-end can curl down into a fixed container, or anchored for a one-person operation, taking care not to kink the arced polypipe in use.
This can also be rigged to an elevated, pedalled rear bicycle wheel , or a heavier wagonwheel/flywheel - on axle, so a kid can turn it easily.
I think , at least, it's smart to have 2-100' coils and footvalve stashed at your BOL. At least consider a couple of these footvalves to barter with.
I think they are more effective if the major part of the screening is removed, since you're not concerned about grit getting past the valve. It may be a risk for a leaking valve, but i think the flow volume might be worth it. I think too, that more water will be funneled in on the down stroke if the valve has an open , extended pipe section of 6" fastened below it and will protect the valve more.
There are various valve return-spring tensions, and i'm in the process of dismantling a couple . There are also 1" footvalves out there...to get into tighter spaces, like a 2" well casing with a defective hand pump.
Also there are likely precise-seated/floating ball-valves without springs , but the only ones i know are smaller,about 3/8"-1/2" are the fuel-siphoning ones at Lee Valley....in the past.
yes we are talking about the same system and yes a siphon hoe would work I was just giving a basic method for either repriming a pump or removing water from an abandoned site . guess i should've mentioned that you should filter and purify after. good idea with the footvalve but I,m running out of room in our vehicles. Half the battle is being able to do anything with what you got.
When in doubt think it out...(you thought I was gonna say something else?)

