My comment : I'd like to see a lot of tools on the list that don't require electricity or batteries or recharging ,
items to take it into a real long term SHTF .

My comment : I'd like to see a lot of tools on the list that don't require electricity or batteries or recharging ,
items to take it into a real long term SHTF .

Thanks for the input Goldie! Hmm, I do agree that it should be stuff that for SHTF scenario, but figure too that many will have backup systems such as solar and wind power. Many also have generators too as they regard electricity an essential and to avoid declining to a non-technological state. Also the list would likely be reduced then to a very small one too. My initial thoughts were to allow folks to see what others deemed as "must get' items so as to prioritize their shopping lists better.

Also consider those items that we now purchase so we can prepare better for later. These are important items to consider and there are issues here I haven't allowed for yet either. I still wonder how to properly compare quality too, as on items such as dehydrators. I have 2 American Harvest round dehydrators that work just fine but others have the larger square units they too like alot...which is better and why? Which should a newbie buy if he has to choose?

I'm into that tool scenario too....still reeling a bit from my trailer/tool theft ....
Anyway , was at P Auto today, starting to replace items as jobs require them....only if they're on sale.
ok, i got stuff on sale, not related to current jobs, too :))...but i know i'll need them.

We have a stainless dehydrator, cube-shape......which we also use as a rodent proof storage box for random veggies in the garage between drying sessions.
I also scour the secondhand stores for old breadboxes for this purpose.... and intend to make "boxes" of 1/4 " hardware cloth and 2x4 for the same purpose.
Sawzall fills a niche like no other for particular jobs.
Comalong hand winch is essential....and a vehicle mounted version 12v.
Aircompressor, at least to fill tires.
Inverter 12v to 120
pitcher pump
siphon jiggler
tractor/pto
DC stick welder/rods, and or mobile truck alternator conversion to dc welder.
Simple Pump Co.pump and pressurized adaptor
4' pipe wrench
Long Steel prybars
Hydraulic floorjacks, and 3/16" sheet steel for soft soil situations.
Pulleys
Chain
Geez, the list keeps reeling out of my head 🙂

"1. It should be useful and the reasons should be included with the post.
2. It should be prepper related somehow.
3. It can be a tool for animals, shop, home, defense, medical, sanitation, etc... there is alot of areas so think hard...
4. Try to insert pics of your item (many can be found simply doing a Google search). Pics are worth a 1,000 words
5. Try to point out the pros and cons of your item and especially is $$ cost.
6. Maybe give it a rating out of 1 to 5 for priority placement for purchasing in it's class of item.

So lets get the show started. I'll post what inspired me to start this thread first."

Yay, tool list! I'll stick with just a handful, as you did.

Might suggest a separate one for timber/wood and gardening, just saying...

But for me:
General List
1.) The 12V Max Dewalt drill (& the reciprocating saw) mentioned briefly by Knuckle
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCK212S2-12-Volt-Driver-Reciprocating/dp/B007Q6ZQ5A
(Doesn't have to be purchased in a combo; we purchased ours separately and ended up with more batteries and chargers because of it.)
- No, not building a house with it
- Yes, building a deck, greenhouse, seasonal covers, animal pens, beds, wood duck boxes, fences
Pros - Drill:
- Small and compact (on a belt or on a lanyard, and in a bucket/box)
- Small enough to fit places the other drills we have won't
- Batteries also small and compact, and good charge/discharge lifespan and charge/discharge time ratios (so you can carry bunches)
- Powerful enough for most jobs, and faster than the two full-sized drills we have/requires less "push" to do the job
Cons:
- I don't have one and Mr. "Bigger" and "More Power" ended up using it instead of the 2 full-sized, so we got another
5/5

2.) Sawsall mentioned/linked above
Pros:
- Flexible head makes it easier to get into tight spaces and apply the leverage needed for easiest labor
- Plenty for 4x4 (with twisting), small limbing/pruning, disassembling pallets and tires
- Compact, so it's on hand for those, and compact batteries and chargers, so some can always be waiting
- Fair charge/discharge ratio
- When you need something bigger, there's a chainsaw
- Lots of blades for lots of jobs (and you can do some mods so other blades can be used if a length doesn't make you happy)
Cons:
- The button for rotating the head gets pushed inadvertently sometimes (PITA)
4/5 (unless no other saw is owned, then 5/5)

3.) Dremel
Pro:
-Easy to use, multiple functions
- Can be used for cutting and drilling for small or very small projects (SIP planters, bird feeders, sharpening tools)
Cons:
- More finishing tool and small project tool
- Cord limits distance
3/5 - except I love mine and firmly believe that with a drill, sawsall and dremel, there's nothing I can't do

4.) Pruners
http://www.theprunerwarehouse.com/felco-f-2-classic-model-pruner.html?___store=default&___store=default&gclid=CNrXvYbmvcECFaZj7Aodb0gA0A
http://www.staples.com/office/supplies/StaplesProductDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogIdentifier=2&partNumber=309319&langid=-1&cid=PS:GooglePLAs:309319&ci_src ="17588969&ci_sku=309319&KPID=309319&kpid=309319&gclid=CJSRqZHmvcECFRJp7Aod6xgAwg"
(Doesn't have to be these two; my current pocket pair is from the dollar store and works just fine)
(No, not just a garden tool)
- Lighter to carry than a hatchet or folding saw for backpacking with a mini rocket stove
- Opens those plastic clamshell packages produced by people who have stock in ER companies like nobody's business
- Little easier for clipping baling wire or wire ties, and can handle electrical cables by sturdiness
- Great for clipping down branches to feed into a chipper b/c it's right there in your yard pouch
- Some work great for any herb or kitchen use (critter disassembly)
- Pretty much any scissor use (to include cardboard and thick plastic jugs, and once a hole is made in the latter, decreases the risk of an ER visit)
- If you're not attached and have the right blade type, can also work as a heavy-duty staple puller
- Pretty easily sharpened (with a dremel)

5.) Hammer(s) - claw for starters
- Assembly, disassembly, with a buffer can be used for shaping or getting a wedge in place

6.) Special case:
I have a couple of tiny compact set of tools with a screwdriver and multiple tips, allen wrenches, a tiny wrench, and pliers. The two I like best are about 5" by 4" by 3" with heavy-heavy plastic and good latch, not the brittle type plastic with a clear pane.
It's tool heavy for a regular everyday bag (purse, computer case), but compact enough for a desk drawer and even the smallest, cleanest, most un-boogered truck/car. It's a go-to on my shelf because I can keep everything neat and grab it, then change out for heads when it turns out I need something else.
They're not full sized and in some cases not full strength, but they get the job done.

I don't count the pocket knife that gets used and abused, or the multi-tool that's in every range bag, backpack, go-away bag. Does cordage count?

Again, Knuckle, if you're interested you might want to make a separate listing for garden & yard tools, and possibly for timber/wood.

Villiager, you have some great suggestions there. I'm betting that you likely lost some folks who may not know what each is and why it is important. Some tickled my interest enough that I had to research them further

Siphon Jiggler: http://www.superjiggler.com/
Looks to be a check valve...or a one way flow valve, yes?
A great addition. I don't siphon gas as I learned a trick that saves me from choking....using a piece of old garden hose, you hold it in the palm of your hand with the thumb ready to cap the top off. You thrust the hose down into the tank and then as you pull it part ways upward again, you cover the hose with the thumb. This technique requires some practice and a rhythm similar to that of milking a teat, but practice makes perfect!

Truck Alternator Conversion Welder: http://www.opensourcemachinetools.org/archive-manuals/TIG-Welder.pdf
That is a downloadable file on how to build a tig unit. Never tried it but doubt I'd like it as you need a means of dialing in the proper amperage to produce a decent weld. The example given at the end wouldn't inspire folks too much as the fella doesn't seem to know much about welding. It is an interesting concept as a get-by item though.

As having been a welder for 30+ years, I'd suggest just maybe buying the 110 volt mig welder as a get-by unit. http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Mig-And-Flux/120V-Flux-Cored-MIG-Wire-Feed-Welder/8154700.p
Not that it is such great welder, but due to it's abilities. (I have a Lincoln version of this). I've used it when my 100 foot welding cables on my trucks weren't long enough to reach small weld jobs. The quality of weld isn't near as good as a professional welder but it is still doable and within reach of many prepper's budgets.
It can weld up to 1/4" plate with gas shielded wire while plugging into 110 volt outlet. This should cover most basic weld jobs and don't waste your money on adding a shielding gas valve kit as you then have to buy and fill a gas bottle too. The flux core rod burns hotter and this is priority as penetration is already poor enough with such small units. Here's some dude playing with one like mine on 3/8"....see the poor penetration as the material is too thick to heat up properly?

Figured Villiager might want to maybe explain the other choices as others also seem to be good items to note...

Again, Knuckle, if you're interested you might want to make a separate listing for garden & yard tools, and possibly for timber/wood.

I like your additions and envy that you have a cordless sawzall as I have looked at them from time to time too!

I'd welcome you even starting another thread regarding such as you probably do more of that type of work than I and therefore know more on the subject too. I own decent metal shop tools as this is my trade but I've been cheap when it comes to the carpentry and yard tools and my choices likely reflect that. I agree that this thread could become confusing as items covering those aspects could even offset Goldie's perspective of this thread being for items that require no power.

I fact, that would even make another interesting thread for someone who perceives this a priority too.... (hint,hint... Goldie, wake up!) 😯

(that'll teach you all for speaking up.... :lol:) And BTW, thank's for helping! 😀

Here are my three...and as usual, way off others radar.

#1- The Gomboy- (full size) http://www.leevalley.com/en/garden/page.aspx?p=69153&cat=2,42706,40721&ap=1
Don't confuse this with cheap pruning saws. This is super sharp (and will send you to the hospital if you F-up) and I do everything with it from cutting lumber to felling and bucking trees up to 4 inches. Its my, keep handy, tool. Few have tried it. My only criticism is the blade is a bit thin and I always overuse it, so get a spare blade, just in case.

#2- The U-Bar Digger- http://www.leevalley.com/US/garden/page.aspx?cat=2,42578,40769&p=10521 (ours is actually stronger than this one but a bit heavy for MrsC5)
People will need to make and turn gardens without the help of gas tillers. Ever tried breaking sod by shovel? Then you know how crippling that job is. This tool was made for the job. Its an oldschool tool and some serious organic farmer friends from the old world have a handmade version of this.

#3- Bicycle pumps- get several. Any time you find one at a garage sale, grab it. The old ones are better, that have a metal clip to attach to the tire nozzle. The plastic ones will break. (not just for bikes. I recently had to pump up a flat tractor tire in the field) There are twice as many bikes in the world than cars. They will still be going when gas is unavailable, whether through, lack of access, infrastructure collapse, or mass unemployment, where gas suddenly becomes cheaper...but you sure cant afford it

My comment : I'd like to see a lot of tools on the list that don't require electricity or batteries or recharging ,
items to take it into a real long term SHTF .

There are options for that, and I have some, but as a general rule they're actually more expensive and they're less labor efficient and take up a lot of room.

Take just "tool" saws:
I don't need one saw.
- I need a hack saw, lumber saws [rip, panel/box, coping, back, or cross cut, but could just do cross cut or panel/box as they're most common; probably a dovetail and keyhole or compass saw if you're out-out-out into the future (not replaced by my sawsall, but is replaced by my sawsall and dremel)].
-If you're out-out you'll also likely want a floor/panel planer (makes stuff flat, like tables and floors) and one for the door and near walls (if you care). Again, my sawsall doesn't do all of those and even with the dremel it wouldn't do all of them effectively. I do own 2' and 4' hand planers because it's easier for me than a small sander, but the sander is soooo much easier than brick and sand/sandpaper once it gets to finishing work.
- I don't bother with a pvc/plastic/laminate saw - I use a hacksaw blade or a panel blade, or use one of the little round blades with super fine teeth that I can attach to a dremel (small/tiny jobs) or the drill (bigger sections).

(I just use a hack saw frame and mod other blades to fit in it for some of those, but my hacksaw is only 20" across with about 16" of usable space)

Tool saws come a in a range of sizes, but they tend to be at least 4-6" "tall" with a negligible depth on the blade, about a ruler, and anywhere from 18" to 3' long. There is depth to the handle, a half inch to an inch and a smidge depending on use group and quality.

I only sharpen some saw blades. Some are just beyond my capability because of tooth shape and my skill, others are just a PITA or a laziness issue and I have full-scale recycling. Almost everybody would need backups - and backup handles.

So I may want/need 2(+) copies of 3-5 saws, 6-10" of depth for 4-6" of width, call it 2'-3' of length, and I'm skipping some of the ease of use and function and getting creative with them.

I can have my favorite small drill and my mini sawsall in a little bag together (with a hacksaw frame and some sanding paper in what should be 3 grits, full sheets and scraps, but I may have to hurt somebody in my house later if I go check).
I just measured. It's 14"x9"x6".
Not only are the tools in there, 2 extra batteries are in there, two chargers are in there, about 18-24 drill tips are in there, 6 hole-makers for softwood and drywall are in there for the drill, several grinding or sanding tips are in there, and there are about 3 dozen saw blades for the hacksaw and sawsall in there, extras of a handful of my most common uses.

There's another 18" long plastic pencil case with replacement blades for the hacksaw frame, mini sawsall, and full-sized sawsall. There are dozens and possibly 100+ blades in there - neatly strung together and bundled by tool and use.

I have more blades than I will ever use.
They cost me $1 here or $5 there.

The initial saw cost me $120 or so (1-2 batteries, 1 charger) and the drill cost me $180 with two chargers and four batteries and a starter kit of blades.
A small solar charger I can use to charge the 12V lithiums in 6-10 hours cost me $150.
I have a converter to use my truck to run parts of my house, and I have a relatively small battery bank. They were ~$100 each, but give me backups to my backup, and they multipurpose for more than tools.

A good-quality saw will run anywhere from $10-30, more for construction-level hand saws. So the initial outlay there works out in favor of the hand tools, depending on type and quality purchased (call it $15 x 2 each of x 3 saws = $180).
You can do most of the tree maintenance work with one of those hand saws.

I can draw a line and control a circular saw that's clamped for most angles, but I really need a miter box for a hand saw or sawsall, so they both get the $15-50 cost and equal space there (we do have a circular saw because it's easier for many things).

When I break down a wooden shipping pallet by hand tools alone (hacksaw blade for outer 8 corners, then pry bar and hammer or wrecker bar), I usually take 30-60 minutes.
With a sawsall and hammer, 15-20, without cracking a board.
With a drill and the sawsall, I can have it back together in a vertical strawberry, herb or lettuce bed or into a box bed or part of a dog/goat house in roughly 15-30 minutes.

The time is pretty important, but I am also somewhat broken from my military days.

I could hammer and hand saw, but too much of that and my body starts screaming.
Yeah, the reciprocating saw rattles me, but the reciprocating saw is working at about 20-50 strokes faster per minute than I do at my most speed-racing moments. So it's over way, way faster.
In the time it takes me to tap and hammer 4 or 5 deck boards I can have all 14 pre-drilled and then screwed on with a drill, hardware cloth stapled or screwed in, and I'm on my way without the need for ice or a poultice or pretending it doesn't hurt. God forbid I'm tapping, pre-drilling with a hand auger, and then screwing boards onto their support by hand. I have no comparison for that one at all.

So it goes with using a hand auger instead of a drill, and using keyhole saws instead of the drill or dremel.
Likewise, I lift a sawsall (even over my head with rope bracing or help) for 20-60 seconds and am out with a 2-4" limb, as opposed to having to stay perched longer and saw longer.

If you'd like a specific list of hand-tool replacements for specific power tools that ended up listed, let me know.
You have the tool saw list.
If you think you're going that far out, there's a lumber-making and timber-collection list (which should for-real probably be its own topic).

If you decide to buy the hand auger I mentioned, you can usually get them in 3 sizes. For most household drill replacements, the lighter version would work, but the mid may be more economical.

Some of the hand augers have different size capabilities, have the ability to have bit sizes changed out.
If they do, sometimes you can find them with shallow enough receivers to take a screw bit. That means you place the screw and almost like a ratchet/socket wrench, instead of pulling the tool away or having to twist the tool, you just seat it and spin.

If you plan to use screws with hand tools for extensive construction or repair, aim for screw heads that have deep-set notches. The shallower the notch at the top, the more likely the screw tip is to slide out, and that gets aggravating fast.

🙂
-P

Well Mrs. Prep, I always thought that a cordless sawzall would be handy for quartering a moose or bear fast(if your not saving the rug), mainly for the spine cut. It'd be great for the head and paw cuts too on a full bear rug. It'd also be handy building tree stands and stretcher racks too I figure. Then I presume old habits would likely get in the way and I drop the idea as I can't stand trying to even fillet a fish with an electric knife as many here swear by. Have you ever taken the sawzall on a hunt yet to consider it's value this way?

And a hand auger...I forgot those existed anymore as now everyone here has gas powered ice fishing augers that they screw up around the yard and I get to then repair them....

Have you ever taken the sawzall on a hunt yet to consider it's value this way?

I had stopped hunting by the time I had a sawsall. Sorry.
I have used them to take down smoked bones and cut antlers into non-house-destroying sizes and get rid of sharp spikes for the pups, and I have a set of blades I use when somebody loves me a provides great big knuckles and legs for roast marrow.
In the field I used a saw very much like the one C5 listed.

And a hand auger...I forgot those existed anymore as now everyone here has gas powered ice fishing augers that they screw up around the yard and I get to then repair them....

There's two types, one like a T and one that's kind of like if you added rotating joints to a hacksaw frame with a handle on one end of the U and a drill bit on the other.

I can't get a photo of the other in (board attachment quota reached; searching "carpentry hand auger" will pop up images for you), but it really is just a T, more commonly a set size, everything from 3' long with a 2-3' handle for big joints to little 3" uprights and 4" handles on top for tiny holes.
The hand brace/carpentry brace/rotating brace/hand auger/rotating auger is the most common of the lot to take multiple bits.

I realized there is a tool I reach for even more than those listed (besides my pocket knife):
Tape measure

Not everybody needs my walk-along counter or the 50' and 100' wheel tapes, but a 16' lives in my truck console, laptop bag, purse, and daily backpacks, there's another attached to a duct tape loop on my red tool kit, at least one in the primary "house needs" bucket organizer, and there's one on Mr.P's HAM Disaster (err...ham DESK). Our bucket and my back-of-truck kit have larger 20-odd or 30-odd tapes.

Clothes shopping/body measurements, doggy harness buying, painting/carpeting, building on micro and small scale, building on large scale, measuring usable grow space, measuring trunks and limbs for growth records, measuring fruit/veg for same comparisons, marking trace and vellum to cut for designs over 18", handier than multiplying by my body height or a known cord length, the tape measure is king.

I like the yellow Stanley that says "don't leave me" and where it stays out when you pull, then retracts when you push the button (as opposed to the ones where you push the button in to hold it out).

I too have a vast assortment of tape measures. I prefer the 16' for all round use and try to get the inch standard on both sides opposed to a metric/inch combo which is common in Canada. This way I can get a reading on both sides of the tape easily when doing a left vs right comparison. Funny how that job becomes a task when it has a different scale on either side. I too have them in every truck, toolbox, and corner I figure I may need one for.

The auger I was talking about are the large hand auger for digging post holes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_BDijYZuE8 I had to even look hard to find that link too. Folks modify a tip and figure to dig with these instead http://www.thefishinhole.com/index.cfm?action=products.get&cs=074 . One big rock and they often bend the auger's shaft while often beating the operator up in the process 😕 I think the ones meant for ground have a slip clutch or something built in....

The auger I was talking about are the large hand auger for digging post holes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_BDijYZuE8 I had to even look hard to find that link too. Folks modify a tip and figure to dig with these instead http://www.thefishinhole.com/index.cfm?action=products.get&cs=074 . One big rock and they often bend the auger's shaft while often beating the operator up in the process 😕 I think the ones meant for ground have a slip clutch or something built in....

I knew what you were talking about (and have used both, plus the types for just taking core samples so you don't waste too much time tilling/digging someplace or can decide if you MUST go metal because all wood except black locust will need replaced in a year). I just figure they go in the yard/garden section and was sticking with the small-tool, construction-type general tool theme.

I figured if you hadn't seen them in a while, others might not know what I was talking about at all.
🙂
-P

Magnatiser / Demagnatiser

http://www.clasohlson.com/uk/Magnatiser/40-8459

Store: many
Price: $2 - $5
Uses: use magnetism to prevent dropping screws while doing tedious jobs.
Pros: I magnatise all my screwdrivers. Often eliminates having the need for a third hand. Handy when you can't quite see where the little bugger goes too.
Cons: you'll be pissed when you grab a screwdriver that you forgot to do!
Priority Rating: 5/5