Haven't replied on this yet, the thread was going in a different direction at the time.
I got a 10/22 that was some kind of a dealer exclusive at the time. Stainless barrel and folding ATI stock. Just over 26" folded. The stock fore-end was pretty flimsy at first till I stiffened it up. With the right ammo (RWS target rifle) it's my go to small game rifle with a 4-12 power Vortex AO scope, very accurate.
A great takedown is the Browning SA 22 if that's what you want. Not that cheap but good rarely is.
That looks like it would fit into this...
http://www.dstactical.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_406&products_id=2842 😉
Neet-o little bang stick by the way.
How does it perform?
-S.
"It's not what you have, but what you have done".
-S.
I've been looking at a .22lr for gopher control and have looked at a number of them, I have heard that the Ruger 10/22 is the standard, and I've recently seen that Rock River has a 10/22 that they (I understand) make under license, anybody had any experience with these? Remington is also making a rather good semi-auto (according to reviews) called the 597. However I haven't found a take down version of that anywhere.
You know that gimmick word you used? I'm there with a lot of the takedowns. The Ar7 has a purpose because it's SOOOOO small. It's also short range - think handgun range. You don't save enough length on the other takedowns (4-6") in my opinion, not for $150-250 of added cost. My opinion.
I'm a 10/22 and 870 girl. The 10/22 is nice because there is as much furniture for it as an AR. It can also handle any load hotness I've run across. I have only had a 10/22 get cranky with me when it was fed using a 25-rnd mag not the Ruger Bx-25 (which may or may not be legal in your area, please check). Mini Mag, CCI stinger, CCI Velocitor, yellowjackets, and Wildcats have been used on groundhogs and prairie dogs in my family and friends, running out to 80-100 yards. Mini Mags and Velocitors have taken 40-yard coyotes. Wildcats and Stinger were choice for the dirt-bag deer poachers in AL and Cali.
Shot placement is everything, and if you get a standard 10/22 instead of a takedown, you can afford a nice scope.
I had not even heard that RRA makes a 10/22. Given that I have abused RRA firearms in every way imaginable, I am inclined to endorse them. On the other hand, I honestly can't remember the last time I cleaned any of my 10/22s in the last 2 years, and they get fired monthly, usually. I have, however, added little dabs of oil here and there. If the price isn't pretty similar for what you'd spend to do whatever you want to it, the 10/22 is something of a very miniature rimfire version of the 870 - hoss territory. Only, you know ... mini-hoss.
🙂
We used to put the special ammo in a little bandoleer of sorts with a letter on the base of the brass to readily identify it when prepping for whatever it was we were going to do, is this kind of the same idea?
That's the idea. For my speed loader sleeve or top rack or sling attachment: My buck gets a quick rub with lead lube wax in the ridges right above the brass, the separated copper slug gets notched around the rim (die-hard pump actions only), and we use a GID paint marker with a B or the number. (Pops was around before glow-in-the-dark paint - and I sometimes thing wheels - and got creative; it stuck.)
We did a test on #8 shot. It will go through drywall, but not exteriors with drywall and sheeting and aluminum siding, or goes through the siding so reduced and deformed it will dimple but not removed a layer of paraffin on a plywood model behind the siding. #6 fares the same with wooden panel/siding but goes through alum like butter, although deformed unless it's steel or lead-free ttmn.
With my choke and building, if my handgun is nullified by something, I like three-tier frangible copper slug (6-12" spread at 5-40 feet; very 'spensive and very hard to find now, although the "separated slugs" can be found more readily) and #8 NOT EVERYTHING I TALK ABOUT IS LEGAL IN ALL COUNTRIES AND STATES. LOOK UP YOUR REGS!
By the time I'm using #8 for self defense, you're close-close. You can test it on a chunk of beef if you like. It makes some impact. Clothing and vests haven't come up, but make a big, big difference on shotgun (and handgun and for darn sure .22) self defense. Still, physical stress and fetal-position shooting/aiming practice and ideal shot placement (2-1+ is a favorite of mine) make the difference.
I'm of mixed feelings about quarter shots, because you're already facing a population that routinely shoots high in high-stress without real-world opportunity to "practice" and an intruder's understandable instinct to duck when facing that distinctive pump sound or a big round muzzle.
This next part is best done with shotguns with bolt breaches. It's called a load swap where you pop out the old (shot) round to put in the new (slug) round to make that precise shot. Done right it is a pretty effective tool ...
We used to do this with pump guns hunting during overlapping season. We had brush, so few long shots, and would tromp through fields and edge. You will mess up a dove with a big hare round, but want that hare round between your fingers in case you flush one, and a #2 round in case the geese are screwing with you. It takes practice (multi-colored dummy rounds) and I use TV commercials and shows to practice it and some other skills now that I'm not in either type of field anymore. It's a really good system, though, and worth the practice for both applications, hunting and defense.
You can watch some CAS/SASS videos to see some of the effective ways to fast reload a pump gun if you want options outside what the military teaches (I can't support a shotgun with only my trigger hand by itself after an injury, so some of what I first learned doesn't work and I found alternatives). Add "Model '97" or "Model 1897" to the video search.
I think that 10/22 of mine was about $375 bare. And it needed some work, the stock was touching the barrel near the fore-end. Once I cleaned that up a bit and stiffened it some it's a great shooter.
The bolt was rough and needed some polishing along with the bolt guide rod to be smooth. Added a VQ hammer and sear, that brought the trigger to about half the factory pull.
One nice addition to the accuracy - the folding stock allows an extra bolt tapped through the back into the receiver, then epoxy bedded. The action is very firm inside the stock with the barrel free. This alone shrunk the groups noticeably.
Ammo makes a big difference in every .22 I've owned, maybe a dozen, each likes different ammo best. Test many different types to find what works best in yours. I tried anything under $100 a brick.
Off a bench with RWS target rifle it will put em all in quarter sized hole or less at 35 yards every time, pretty darn good for a semi-auto. Yes it's $50 a brick, twice the bulk ammo price but the accuracy reflects the price. It's getting a head shot on a partridge or missing entirely.