I don't do gardens but I'm trying to learn. This site lists plans that shouldn't be planted in close proximity
Often times when we talk about Companion Planting we discuss the plants that play nice together and should always be planted side-by-side in our gardens. Not too often do we talk about those plants that just don’t get along. It’s like we are gossiping about the neighbors or something. I mean, even though we love having sunflowers in the neighborhood they sure don’t play well with others. They emit a toxin from their roots that inhibits other plants from growing too close to them as they want all the nutrients in the surrounding soil. Who knew?
Well, I’m here to give you the dish on what plants to NOT plant together when you are companion planting, even if they would look just perfect in your vegetable or herb garden next to each other.
Anything in the bean family, whether it is string green beans or bush beans all the way to lima beans don’t get along with quite a few other vegetables. Their biggest nemeses in the garden are chives, garlic, leeks, and onions. They are not fans of bulb-type vegetables! Beans also don’t do well with peppers, either the sweet green peppers or their fiery cousins the jalapeños. One plant that I was shocked that beans don’t get along with are marigolds, which are typically crowd pleasers as they deter pests. In fact, all the plants that the bean family shuns are those that deter pests. Go figure!
Peas are cousins to beans and they also loathe the bulb veggies including chives, garlic, leeks, and onions.
Both broccoli and cauliflower have a few enemies in the vegetable world. They are not fans of peppers, all types of squash including yellow squash and even pumpkins. How they don’t care for strawberries or tomatoes I will never know, but they don’t. It seems the cool season crops of broccoli and cauliflower have something against those fruits and veggies that like it a little hotter to grow.
Besides cauliflower and broccoli, steer clear of planting cilantro and cucumbers near tomatoes. Dill and carrots would rather be at other ends of the planter bed too.
So now you know too who would rather stay on their own sides of the garden!
To sum it all up – when companion planting:
Beans: Don’t plant near chives, garlic, leeks, onions, peppers, marigoldsPeas: Don’t plant near chives, garlic, leeks, onions, peppersBroccoli and Cauliflower: Don’t plant near peppers, squash, strawberries, tomatoesTomatoes: Don’t plant near broccoli, cauliflower, cilantro, cucumbersDill: Don’t plant near carrotsSunflowers need to be planted at least 12 inches away from any other plant.
If you plan to do any companion planting, you will want to check out th
Read more at http://momsneedtoknow.com/companion-planting-plant-together/#2X3GktHle52wK6pZ.99
http://momsneedtoknow.com/companion-planting-plant-together/
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Thanks for the intel
Anything in the bean family, whether it is string green beans or bush beans all the way to lima beans don’t get along with quite a few other vegetables. Their biggest nemeses in the garden are chives, garlic, leeks, and onions. They are not fans of bulb-type vegetables!
Peas are cousins to beans and they also loathe the bulb veggies including chives, garlic, leeks, and onions.
Alliums, not bulbs.
Legumes are fine with the Narcissus family. I don't know from personal experience whether they'll deal with Hippeastrum or Tulipa, but my peas and lima beans go in the same hole(s) and planters after my dafs die off yearly. They just don't like alliums.
The peas are simply aces at shading the daf's (and radishes, carrots) to extend their season just a teeny tiny please-it's-once-a-year bit.
Alliums can help a few plants, but several are greedy and they can help just as much being in a pot surrounded by a wafer with the seeds being watched like a hawk.
Dill and carrots would rather be at other ends of the planter bed too.
I actually do my carrots in rows between future bushy plants (lima beans, broccoli, lettuce, tomatoes) leaving myself enough room to pull the carrots without unearthing the new plants. The carrots tend to be done by the time the others are starting to fill in.
The problem there may be either crowding or a less-dense soil near your edges.
One plant that I was shocked that beans don’t get along with are marigolds ... In fact, all the plants that the bean family shuns are those that deter pests.
Marigolds work in two ways.
One, they release a chemical into the soil that repels certain types of bad bugs (alleopathy - can be good, but sometimes bad, as with oaks). That mostly affects tomatoes, cabbages and potatoes, but most people aren't actually planting them at a concentration to reap much effect from it. One between plants doesn't do the trick. You have to box them or, in the case of cabbages, basically put equal parts marigold to cabbage in the ground. The effects seen tend to be because of their second hat trick...
Two, they're a predatory bug attractant due to the flowering. Predatory bugs munch the bad baby larvae or adult bugs. Regularly parasitic bugs (they lay eggs in the bodies of the bad bugs, and when the eggs hatch, it's curtains for the bad bug -- yea, itty bitty mini wasp things!) are included in the "predator" category.
You can get that second effect without planting marigolds in the same ground as the beans*. Like chives, you can leave them in a pot around the beans*. Or you can plant extra parsley, thyme, or basil around the beans*, or you can put nasturtiums around the beans*, or chamomile.
Planting some mint, borage (AKA: The "Oh. My. Nummers." plant - a positive thing), comfrey, lemon balm or lemon verbena, catnip, and anise nearby (back of bed where they won't shade young beans* or in pots) can also help in a big way both with pollinators and with predatory bugs.
Anise works, but may need some precautions.
Stevia makes a STUNNINGLY excellent mini-wasp and ladybug plant around here.
Calendula is nice as an early-season pollinator and predatory bug attractant.
You can also go with buckwheat or crimson clover, white clover or purple clover (and beware the delighted bees if you do).
Bee balm spreads unlike anything on earth except maybe hatred, taxation and kudzu, and the bees really do swarm, but it makes fantastic jelly and syrup/glaze.
They're all beneficial, and the think I like best about them is that I can eat them or make tea from them! (Marigolds are ick in my world, but I don't like a lot of veggies.)
The most effective predatory bug plants are going to be the ones with small to tiny flowers, particularly in complex inflorescence (multiple flowers in a ball, forming a "rod" or with an umbel corymb or cyme "flat top"). They appeal to multiple types, but especially the tiny pinhead wasps that get rid of squash bugs and munch the bad aphids.
All that said, I've never actually had tomatoes unhappy about cilantro in a mixed salsa bed.
Here's another chart for you, although I personally would not put chives anywhere I did not want chives to take over, and I can't grow ANYTHING in chive pots after the first year, so take it with a grain of salt: 
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Here's a shorter list: 
Download with plant-by-plant friends, enemies and sometimes tips: http://www.hpfb.org/uploads/companionplanting.pdf
Mother Earth News has a pretty exhaustive list, but it's almost impossible to search: http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/carrots-love-tomatoes-companion-planting-for-a-healthy-garden-zb0z11zbug.aspx#axzz2yXjvVxa0
When you plant, remember it's not just chemical interaction. Some of the "bad buds" are fine side-by-side in separate containers, because it's actually root spread or root depth or strangle-hold roots that are keeping them from being good buddies or at least quiet neighbors.
Happy garden nom-noms!
*Edit: I typed peppers several times, no idea why.