So I have been looking for a portable way store solar power. Commercially available units seemed quite expensive (Kodiac), and had features I didn't need. I set out to design a small system for my needs and I came up with this: a homemade solar storage cart. A good winter project.
Costs:
750 watt inverter.....$57.85
100 watt solar panels.....$231.44
Connectors, 110 CFCI outlet.....$40.15
65 amp type 24 wet cell battery.....$147.81
Fuse holder, 110 outlet cover.....$24.05
Voltage display.....$15.88
Fuse block, usb outlet, 12 vr outlet.....$38.47
Button switches.....$7.56
Wheeled cart.....$34.18
SAE face plate.....$28.02
TOTAL COST.....$625.41
If you have any comments, let me know. This is my first attempt at attaching photos.
Now that is some fine looking workmanship. When I seen the first picture I thought I was looking at a commercial unit. I would add the second battery.
Now a question for you, first you have the battery voltage display you bought and installed on the box, then there is a voltage meter on the charge controller, the question is, Do they agree? and just cause I am anticipating your answer I will ask how much are they apart?
Give a man a gun, and he can rob a bank. Give a man a bank, and he can rob the world.
Yes. The inexpensive charge controller has a -2 volt difference, as compared to the voltage display I installed on the cart and also using a Fluke meter. A second battery will give me a total of 130 amps (with a usable 65 amps). Hopefully this little cart can take the weight. The solar panels use an SAE style connector, easy to connect the panels to the cart, but probably not as efficient as M4 connectors. A small car charger can still be added to charge the batteries from 110 if needed. It was a fun project, and tested my 12 volt wiring skills.
Sorry, that's suppose to be a minus point two voltage difference, no minus two.
First may I say that you've done a wonderful job putting this unit together! I concur with peppercorn's comment that it looks like a commercial unit.
About 15 years ago, I purchased something similar from Canadian tire. At that time it was just over $200, but has since been discontinued. It's a similar type wheeled encasement with a attachable handle to make it easier to relocate (like a suitcase). It had two large 12 volt terminals and two switchable 120 vac plugs. It contained 3 SW12220 12V 22Ah F8 Batteries (which I replaced this year) and an inverter sealed within the unit.
I still keep this on a battery-minder. When Hurricane Juan struck this area in 2003, it allowed me to easily make coffee in the morning. To my wife this was a game changer and to some degree I believe her reason for readily accepting prepping as a logical precaution to take. 🙂
None you improvise, one (or more) is luxury.
So I have been looking for a portable way store solar power. Commercially available units seemed quite expensive (Kodiac), and had features I didn't need. I set out to design a small system for my needs and I came up with this: a homemade solar storage cart. A good winter project.
Costs:
750 watt inverter.....$57.85
100 watt solar panels.....$231.44
Connectors, 110 CFCI outlet.....$40.15
65 amp type 24 wet cell battery.....$147.81
Fuse holder, 110 outlet cover.....$24.05
Voltage display.....$15.88
Fuse block, usb outlet, 12 vr outlet.....$38.47
Button switches.....$7.56
Wheeled cart.....$34.18
SAE face plate.....$28.02
TOTAL COST.....$625.41
If you have any comments, let me know. This is my first attempt at attaching photos.20181021_115630.jpg
20181021_120200.jpg20181021_115958.jpg
Good lord man, that is one fine looking unit. Way out of my patience wheelhouse 😯
Congrats and thanks for the photos and pricing.
Yes. The inexpensive charge controller has a -2 volt difference, as compared to the voltage display I installed on the cart and also using a Fluke meter. A second battery will give me a total of 130 amps (with a usable 65 amps). Hopefully this little cart can take the weight. The solar panels use an SAE style connector, easy to connect the panels to the cart, but probably not as efficient as M4 connectors. A small car charger can still be added to charge the batteries from 110 if needed. It was a fun project, and tested my 12 volt wiring skills.
Ok a 2 tenths of a volt difference between the two meters...but no, because both those displays only display one digit to the right of the decimal point, we have no idea of the hundreth value, one could actually be 12.4 (9) and the other could be 12.2 (0) so we could have a 3 tenth of volt difference between two meters and not know it, and not know what one is correct, except of course you would know it, because you have a fluke to verify whats what. Smart! Don't trust the meters on your equipment!! (manufacturers often cheap out there) only a known good multi meter. I know people with expensive solar systems who dont own any multimeters, let alone a quality one, and are completely blind in solving their own problems.
Why am I being a dick about a 3 tenths of a volt, and having a meter that will display two places to the right of the decimal point...because it matters
12.20 is half the battery used up (50%), and you dont want to go below this on a lead acid battery, but 12.49 is about 83% of charge left..Thats quite the difference and knowing where your really at is important!!
Give a man a gun, and he can rob a bank. Give a man a bank, and he can rob the world.
Thanks for the good information.
Cheap charge controller...$10.00
Cheap digital voltage display...$11.00
Fluke multimeter...$195.00
You get what you pay for!
That's an great chart peppercorn. It helps . TANKYOU!
Thanks for the good information.
Cheap charge controller...$10.00
Cheap digital voltage display...$11.00
Fluke multimeter...$195.00You get what you pay for!
I just thought of your portable system...ideal for adding a super cap board to!
Give a man a gun, and he can rob a bank. Give a man a bank, and he can rob the world.