now if they just made them with a cover on and heating, I would be sold 😉

I dont know about the cover but heating is doable. I just found this...it looks like heated clothing you can run right off the usb port on the battery or from a small power supply. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5xbVLj_GJU

Just did 10km tonight, mostly in power assist so I got a real good work out. Going too fast into a turn again, went straight into a snow bank, burried it axels deep. Decided to see if I could throttle my way out of it...no chance I suspect the motor controler has fold back current limitting as it just sat there. Thats a good thing as you are less likely to strip motor gears trying to start from a stalled state by giving it too much power. This controler is factory set for 15 amps, ( you can go to 20 in the software, or if you know your way around hardware you can hack it for 25amp) so if the load starts drawing greater than that it folds back. With it as 15amps, guys are reporting that they can haul themselves, bike, and still pull trailers weighing over 200 pounds.
Since I am driving on a private road I just wore a belaclava tonight, I wore the helmet that comes with the bike the first couple of times but even though I ordered the largest size, I cant get the helmet strap to reach...I must have one fat head. I am going to have to pick up a better helmet. this one is also a little heavy for my liking.

Swung by a bike store and bought myself a cycling helmet, the ones with lots of ventilation like pro cyclists use. Found out real quick that my hair impaired skull needs a toque under the helmet!! at least for winter cycling! Again the strap is too short..or head to fat. (you missed your que Wayne)

Took my 1st Firman inverter generator and tied it to the back rack, hooked up the charger, and plugged it into the battery...other end to the firman and did some night driving...just to see..

I got to observe my bike being ridden. A visitor took it for a spin. I think I soon wont be the only one out here with one of these 😀

Now as a observer I can confirm that to me standing about 30 feet away I cant hear any noise other than the crunch of snow under the tires as the bike goes by.

I am over 50km on this bike. I have observed a few things. This bike has a 48 volt lithium battery. I am guessing the charger takes this battery pack up to 54 volts to fully charge and balance the cells. When I first used the bike I remember hitting right around 38km hr on throttle only, no pedaling.

As I have kept using up battery capacity, top speed is dropping. With half the battery capacity gone, on full throttle I can only get to 32.X kmhr now, on the flat. I pulled the battery off to measure the voltage, it read 45.6 volts. I have lost 6km per hour in speed with half the charge gone. I expect to lose at least that much again if I use up the last half of the battery.

I was thinking of a cover like they have for scooters 😆

now if they just made them with a cover on and heating, I would be sold 😉

I dont know about the cover but heating is doable. I just found this...it looks like heated clothing you can run right off the usb port on the battery or from a small power supply. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5xbVLj_GJU

Just did 10km tonight, mostly in power assist so I got a real good work out. Going too fast into a turn again, went straight into a snow bank, burried it axels deep. Decided to see if I could throttle my way out of it...no chance I suspect the motor controler has fold back current limitting as it just sat there. Thats a good thing as you are less likely to strip motor gears trying to start from a stalled state by giving it too much power. This controler is factory set for 15 amps, ( you can go to 20 in the software, or if you know your way around hardware you can hack it for 25amp) so if the load starts drawing greater than that it folds back. With it as 15amps, guys are reporting that they can haul themselves, bike, and still pull trailers weighing over 200 pounds.
Since I am driving on a private road I just wore a belaclava tonight, I wore the helmet that comes with the bike the first couple of times but even though I ordered the largest size, I cant get the helmet strap to reach...I must have one fat head. I am going to have to pick up a better helmet. this one is also a little heavy for my liking.

They are heavy but a snowmobile helmet may be the way to go. Get the heated visor

I used the battery up until I dropped into the 1 bar on the display, with 2 bars my top speed, throttle only was 27kmhr, I expect that would drop further as I ate into the 1st bar. I am not going to use up the last bar, I should just too test the max range I could get but I am not going to use my battery that hard, if I did use it up I guess I would hit 80km on a charge. Someone lighter than me would go much further, I also used the throttle pretty hard at first and I also have the handle bars up high so I am sitting more upright.
Voltage when I hit 1 bar was 43.5 volts, sticker on the motor driver says that it will drop out at 39 volts.

This all gives me a good idea of what I can expect of it range and power wise. I have acquired a taste of it at 40km a hour (hit 41.8). That speed felt just right, so right... With the factory front chain ring (44 tooth) I had to pedal to hard, my cadence was just to fast and not sustainable, but for 30.00 dollars I can buy a 50 tooth chain ring (maybe 52) and put it on. This should allow me to cruise up at 40km easier. This will likely be one of the first changes I make, adding a higher tooth front chain ring, and adding a much smaller one beside it, maybe a 36-38 tooth. The small one just in case if I ever break down far from home I stand a chance of pedalling my way back home.....This bike is a good bit heavier than my non electric fat tire bike.

I thought I was going to have to map out my own chart and then I found this one.

Its been too cold to ride my bike (-35) so I have been seeing what else I can do with this lithium battery.48 volts at 16amphrs must have some use. So I hacked into a heated electric blanket. I will use it tonight to power this blanket and see how well it works. I am only drawing .7 amps from the battery, that works out to about 34 watts. with a full battery I could power this blanket for about 20hrs .34 watts is nice gentle heat. 20hrs would be 3 sleeps from a full charge

EDIT...it worked perfect, used a little less power than I thought.

I read an article today on the cold effecting batteries in Tesla cars. I was surprised it wasn't a greater loss of power.

Have you looked to see if there is a chart that takes temperature into account?

Are you not concerned about voiding the manufacturer's warranty?

I dont think I am too concerned or I wouldnt be doing this...the only way to learn...I view it like this, I own it, it will be off warranty in a year anyway, so I may as well get a years jump ahead in figuring this stuff out. Just look at all those yellow wires, each one coming from each lithium cell in the pack for the purpose of individual cell monitoring and balancing...fascinating, likely more computing power in the battery management system than was in the Apollo moon lander.

Oldschool, I have not found a chart with respect to temperature, only comments about performance.

I think the following would most likely apply to your bike:

The AAA study used five sample cars, each from a different manufacturer, with a minimum 100-mile range and wide availability in the U.S. It compared performance at three temperatures: 20°F, 75°F, and 95°F, per the SAE International standard, used in the automotive industry.

At 20°F, the cars lost an average of 12% of their range, relative to the baseline temperature of 75°F, whereas they lost only 4% in the warmer 95°F scenario.

Firing up the heater or air conditioner took things to a whole new level: in the cold, with their heaters on, cars lost 41% of their range and in the heat, with the air conditioning on, they lost 17%.

As a result, electric cars cost more to operate in the cold than in moderate temperatures. AAA calculates that running the heater in the cold adds about 2.5 cents per mile in their test sample of electric cars.

Just for fun I went back in time( on the bike forums) to 2008. electric bikes were 90% lead acid, lithium batteries were just coming out into the field of biking. But cost was high and reliability poor 24 and 36 volts were the common voltages used, 2009 looked like a learning year and a mix of lithium and lead being used. By 2010 Lithium had 80% of the market on E bikes, batteries were still improving By 2011 it was 99% lithium but except for guys who built their own battery packs, The ones on commercial electric bikes were small 36 volt 12 amphrs looks common. Now 8 years later battery packs up to 72 volts, 20 amphrs can be found. The standard in commercial ebikes seems to be clipped at 60 vdc, due to EU considering voltage above that too dangerous for a electric bike, do to voltage above that being able to penetrate the skin. My battery pack at 48volts, 16 amphrs is considered substantial.

First upgrade is on order...a assortment of 5 front chain rings, from 38T up to 52Teeth. Anodized candy apple red in colour, I may as well dress it up! There is one guy on the bike forums running a 60 tooth front chainring on his hot rodded electric bike claiming to be able to pedal up to 55kmhr on his, I am thinking a 50T one should allow me a good cadence up to 43-44km, but if I can hold it and cruise along easy at 40k I will be happy.

New chain rings arrived...