the amount that the panel is rated for is what they advertise normally its about 1/2 - 2/3 of its max rating I have that same controller you are good! i have two of those panels . if your looking to keep weight and ease of movement CT has / had some ultra thin panels for sale for 30 $

TCO, Looks to me like you have things hooked up right (other than comment at bottom)...you see the problem you have ... its what do you know? , its where are you starting from?, where are you at?, what can you trust?
Let me flesh that out, first...What do you know? it might be better to say what can you Know ? The panel should have a amperage output listed on the back, and a voltage that that amperage value is valid at. We will call that the goal posts and ideally should be accurate 🙄 Why don't you post that info please.
Where are you starting from? and by that I mean where is the battery at? Ideally a new battery is fully charged..we don't live in a ideal world so your battery is somewhere down the curve from a charged state.
Its been charging for a couple days and the indicator led doesn't indicate full yet, so you don't know where you are at?
Then lastly, what can you trust? can you trust the panel to put out what it says? trust that the charge controller is even working? I would answer no to both those questions.
There is one way to begin knowing exactly what is going on....you likely don't want to hear this but it starts with a meter...you just have to be able to measure things like voltage and current flow or you are feeling around in the dark. Can I convince you to buy a meter?
This one is suitable for a home gamer, https://www.homedepot.com/p/Extech-Instruments-80-Amp-AC-DC-Mini-Clamp-Meter-380950/205556903
Its accuracy is very good for the price, they are not fire proof though. Yes you can find cheaper models on the net, this model is the cheapest I and others I know, have found to be accurate enough to somewhat trust out of the box, actually its current measuring accuracy is bang on right down to Half a milli amp or so (from memory). Model Extech 380950

if you want to save a little coin this model might be ok, I think it is constructed much the same as the model I recommended but with bigger jaws (a nice feature) https://www.homedepot.com/p/Extech-Instruments-400-Amp-AC-DC-Clamp-Meter-MA220/206342370?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-205556903-_-206342370-_-N

I am bothered with where you have this set up...inside your house? sunlight being attenuated by two panes of glass? maybe even low E glass at that! Not good.

ahh yes my mistake I failed to read that the set up was as is. The panel for best results is generally south facing outside. in order to figure out your energy that its making you have to figure out a few things this is one of them that electricity has three properties . Voltage, Current, Resistance.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2LgvmWNVwc heres a quick break down and a way to read a multi meter

My Multi meter Canadian tire version. Its not a fluke box but a journeyman electrician recommended it for me

Jimbo, Your model may very well be ok, I looked it up and with a cat 111 rating it "should" be safe for a residential home gamer to use. I say should as there are low end meters that are built for cat 3 specs and there are low end meters with cat 3 stenciled on them. One of the differences becomes apparent when you have the meter set on resistance (or diode test or cont) but your measuring a 240 volt ac line..( or rectified 240)it doesn't go well......I just know( because I have been inside the unit) that the model I recommended wont blow up on someone ( at residential voltages) if the dial is miss set for whats being measured.

TCO my point about being able to measure things is still valid, with a meter you would have been able to see the dramatic reduction in amperage, from being behind a couple panes of glass (angled at that). You would have found this out on day one when you looked at the spec on the back of the panel and compared it to what you were measuring (if you had a meter). I bet your not getting a third of what the panel could put out but you need a meter to prove this....in fact I don't think I have ever seen someone test for this...you could be the first, I don't really know, I am just guessing, Get a meter and do a you tube vid about how much power is lost being behind multiple layers of glass causes!
Anyway your battery has likely been just self discharging since you bought it. get the panel out side and give it 5, maybe 10 days to charge up, and get a meter. My 2 cents

TCO, I kept thinking about your behind the glass panel, and thought someone must have tested for this, I got on the you tube and it turns out there arnt many but a couple people have done a test of this....this is a pretty straight forward test, much as you have yours set up https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1j1i_KQM-k

The take away from this vid is that sunlight from most any angle ( and behind glass) will light up a panel enough to drive its OCV to near nameplate spec's but current from the panel only flows to name plate specs (or nearly so ) when the panel is outside in direct unobstructed sunlight.
As power, the end product we want, is a function of current X Voltage a deficiency in one will dramatically lower the power output.

Her measurements confirm my guestimate...1/3 behind glass.

GEntlemen,

Thanks for the input. I've dusted off the ol' multi meter, and will change the location of the panel tomorrow and get it outside. I"ve hooked up my CB radio to the battery and there is enough juice to power it. HOwever havn't heard anything on it as of yet. (Perhaps not near anyone else using it. can't say i'm in a high traffic area. 🙂 )

Thank for the assistance both of you.

No worries I'm glad to help, I just use a different methodology then Peppercorn is all. Good luck!

http://forum.expeditionportal.com/forums/48-Power-Systems-12v-Solar-Gen heres a forum that goes in to the system at another angle.